Method of producing jewel settings



Aug. 19. 19245, I 1,505,395

I 5 J. KREISLER METHOD OF PRODUCING JEWEL SETTINGS FiledApriLZl. 1921 A TTORNEY Patented Aug. 19, 1924;

JACQUES KREISLER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR- TO JACQUES KREISLCER &'CO.,

FIRM COMPOSED OF JACQUES KEEISLER AND ADELE STERN, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

METHOD O13 PRODUCING JEWEL SETTINGS.

Application filed April 21, 1921. Serial No. 433,431.

T all whom it may concern.

Be it known that JAo Uns Knnisnnn, citizen of Hungary, residing at New-York city, New York, has invented anew and useful Improvement in Methods of Producing Jewel Settings, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improved method of producing jewel settings and 0 more particularly a type of settingknown as box settings, in which cut designs or bridges are introduced between upright prongs integral with an annular bezel;

One of the objects. of this methodof manufacturing settings as hereinafter described, is to provide acut blank having the prongs and bezel formed as an integral structure. Other objects of the invention will be apparent from the following detailed description.

The drawing which accompanies and forms a part of this disclosure is'of a preferred form selected for the purposes of illustration, wherein:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of ablank after a cutting die has separated the blank from a flat piece of metal.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the blank shown in Fig. 1 after having been formed by, a forming die.

Fig. 2 is a substantially vertical sectional view taken on the lines 22 of Fig. 2, showing the material which is at the end of the prongs as being substantially heavier than at the marginal portion.

Fig. 3 is a view of the finished blank with some of the cut out designs in place ready for soldering.

Fig. l is a side elevational view of the.

setting after it has been bent and the ends soldered together.

In the art of manufacturing box settings heretofore, especially the type of box setting wherein the prongs and cut out designs are soldered together to provide the body or crown of the setting, it has been exceptionally difiicult to retain the separate prongs and designs in their respective positions during the process of joining them. It has been the practice to place the short pieces of wire forming the prongs upon a charcoal block and spacing and arranging them so as to divide one group of ends evenly over a shorter arcuate line than that of the opposite ends. The result will be a fan shaped formation. Cut out designs,

which are stamped from metal sheets are l and the prongs, and for this reason designs have been limited to a few types. By

this process a complete pattern is produced after considerablelabor and cost. I

The pattern in then bent so that the free edge of the outside prong and the edge of the end design may be brought together and soldered. This method is undesirable as it necessitates very careful manipulation of the pattern during the bending operation to prevent the separation of the design and the prongs where the bend is made. Ithas been found at this particular step in the development of the setting that, because the soldered parts are subjected to an undue amount of strain, the entire setting will often collapse; and make further work on the settingv useless. Further difliculty is encountered. when joining the small strips of wire to the bridges or designs. As the heat is applied (which is usually done by means of a blow pipe) there is a tendency for the parts to change their respective positions; resulting in the prongs being uneven at their ends so that after bending and the final joining takes place it is necessary to do considerable filing; and adjusting. There is a loss of both material and time and the result is often crude.

The setting produced, as described so far,

is then turned over to the ring manufacturer who is required to fit a bezel tothelower ends of the prongs before the setting can be attached to the body of the ring. Each ring must be securely solderedto the bezel and it will be understood that this step in ring manufacturing requires considerable skill and time. Therefore, it is one of the objects of this invention to produce a pattern which-will do away with this last step of attaching a bezel, by forming it as an integral part of the prongs and at the same time render the securing of the bridges or designs'in their proper posit-ions a very simple matter requiring but little skill.

In the process of producing a box setting to a of the drawing. A piece or" flat gauge metal is stamped by a cutting die and a blank or pattern is produced as at A, said pattern having an arcuately shaped marginal. portion 11 provided with integral radially disposed flared prongs 10. The marginal portion 11 projects beyond the prongs 10 at one end as at 12. This blank is then formed by a forming die to its shape indicated in Fig. 2 at This step is particularly important where platinum or other er;- pensive metal is used for the setting, be cause the metal at the marginal portion 11 of the setting may be pressed to a substantially smaller cross section than at the ends of the prongs. The forming die for producing this resultmay be comparatively shallow at the marginal end and gradually taper to a greater depth towards the ends of the prongs. To remove the surplus material whichhas been displaced in the form of a web 13 between the edges of the prongs, the patternmay again be placed between the cutting dies where the web may be sheared cit. It will be understood that where a relatively cheap material is used for the setting this last step of forming the pattern and of removing the web 13 may be omitted and the cuttin dies so arran ed that a finished pattern may be produced without the last step of forming and displacing the metal. It will be noted with particular reference to Fig. 2 that the metal is tapered from a comparatively heavy gauge at the ends of the prongs 1,0 to a very thin gauge at the bezel 11. The web 13 thus formed may be removed as stated above and remelted for further use. The dies are also provided with markers which form small marks or depressions 1& on the opposite edges of the prongs 10. The designs or bridges 15 are placed between the prongs adjacent the marginal portion and alined with the markings 14. Solder and heat are applied and the members 15 become an integral part of the box setting. To complete the shaping up of the pattern as'the final step in the opera-- tion, the marginal band 11 is bent by means of a round nosed pliers until the end of the projection 12 is brought into contact with the opposite end of the band 11. These ends are soldered together as at 16 and the contact points of the end bridge or design 15 are soldered to the wall of the adjacent end prong 10. Thus, a finished box setting is produced and ready to be received by the body or the ring. The heavy metal at the ends of the prongs 10 give ample body in which to set a stone and the reduced weight of material at the bezel provides a large open space between the prongs 10 which is very desirable where faceted stones are used.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, What I claim is I claim:

1. A method of making pronged box set tings for jewelry, which consists in first forming the prongs and bezel as an integral part thereof, then securing inserts between adjacent prongs, and finally bending said pattern so as to bring its opposite ends into fixed engagement with each other.

2. A method 01" making a jewel setting 01" the character described, which consists in first cutting an arcuate blank having integral flared prongs, then forming said blank and making suitable markings on each prong, joining the prongs by bridges soldered to the opposite edges of said prongs at the markings thereof, and then bending said arcuate blank so as to form an annular bezel having the prongs extending in upright formation about said bezel.

In testimony whereof, JACQUES KnEIsLnR has signed his name to this specification, this 2nd day of April, 1921. 5

JACQUES immerse. 

